Відео

Good street box for sure.

not a bad idea.

some random bolt I had. it's a M8 thread on the cam bolts. you can also just use a long rod or dowel.

@@3rdGenGuy thanks

parts stores will have many main seals in stock. but This one is a "FEL-PRO BS 40626"

www.radiumauto.com/VTA-Competition-Catch-Can-P2449.aspx www.radiumauto.com/Low-Profile-Swiveling-Banjo-Fittings-P1355.aspx I'm also not sponsored I just like Radium stuff.

@3rdGenGuy I loves the setup bro. Very professional looking and easy.

@@3rdGenGuy ima have to rewatxh your video to see what all you bought lol

explain what you didn't understand about a GM rotor replacement?

sry, the UA-cam algorithm removed the audio.

its venting the excess crankcase pressure, don't really need a vacuum source to pull it out.

​@@klynsma76Understood. I know you said that it would smell a little but I didn't really see a vent so there is my confusion

@tonym6854 oh that wasn't me lol. But, it's a neat catch can you can hardly tell it's vent to atmosphere.

Autocross or road racing has basically Zero vacuum available. the intake at WOT has 0.0 vacuum, so you have to get crankcase gases out by venting. even the intake tube has almost nothing vacuum wise. 3/8 lines aren't big enough to -10an (5/8) is used. that can is a full race can, has drawbacks on the street, but also Pros at a track

​@@3rdGenGuyMakes perfect sense. My stuff is street performance so I never really thought of wide open throttle nearly constantly.

The lengths need to be about the same. A longer arm travels a different arc. so if one arm is too long, it'll jam up the watts link. the fay2 instructions do mention that.

@@3rdGenGuy the arms are the same length (8 threads pivot side, 3 threads axle side) but the axle clamps are not the same distance from the diff. I'd be curious of your measurements.

as long as the center pivot bolt is centered, the clamps can be a bit off. assuming the arms are equal length.

watch my other 2 wheel fitment videos!

don't let your dreams be dreams. weld one up

I think that's the OEM blue.

lowering a panhard bar mount on both sides is for racing. otherwise the pass side is lowered mildly for exhaust clearance,

weight jacks allow you to adjust ride heights. about 4in of range

it's a 3d printed knob I've been trying out. basically a lightbulb shape ha ha

I think he was selling the hood he had on that Blue 89.

the bore size on the pressure end is about the same. 0.94in vs 1in the 4th gen is a straight bore master that's better suited for modern brake swaps the 3rd gen master is a dual bore for use with GM's stupid 3rd gen low drag brakes but I see a lot of the 98-02 masters fail due to bad quality.

@@3rdGenGuy Thank you so much man this is great information! Might just save up the dough for an aftermarket set up. My buddy's Elantra N puts you through the windshield and I need that in my turd gen lol

A new stiffer spring in the proportion valve helps a lot

whatever company is making those 98-02 masters is dong a bad job. I see at least 1 bad one about every month.

Got my ACdelco 3rd gen master cheap from Rockauto and haven’t had an issue with it.

good to hear. I'm assuming whatever parts store brand ones are not as good.

depends on the strut you use. some use different threads. I use Koni race struts that use a 14mm fine thread, but I think the oem struts use a larger nut.

go to a parts store and ask for "A 700r4 or 4l60e pump seal"

I've been meaning to go to Holland since all my cousins live there. I'm something like 1/2 dutch. maybe in the future.

I currently use a Radium Competition VTA catch can. the one in the video is a Vent to engine version that wasn't enough for racing.

it can be run either way depending on your clearance. in my case, the taller diff cover was a bit too close to my liking: so I switched the bolt direction.

lowest part of the exhaust is that spintech muffler. the vibrant bullet mufflers are well clear of everything.

@@3rdGenGuy I checked out your other video. I believe I have Speed Engineering long tubes and they scrape a bit here and there. My car has Eibach Sportlines. The V-bands were constantly getting hammered so I had to weld in a spacer and delete them. What made you choose the 3000 series versus the 9000 or 1000?

I don't really have issues with bottoming out due to the insane spring rates I'm running. as far as the muffler, I have (96) DBA limits at my local tracks and Autocross venues. I pull 95.0 DBA, so I'm already close to getting disqualified by the sound chief.

it has Zinc and seam sealer. so you have to burn that off, then make a good weld. oem is just held in by a single bolt, so anything is stronger that that.